Features, Food & Dining, Reviews | February 25 2010

Carbone’s short on hours, but not food variety




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Squeezed into the formidable “restaurant-row” of 38th Avenue is an unassuming storefront. It is marked by age and a colorful awning that may conjure up images of every “Little Italy” in the Northeast.

However, Denver has always had a strong Italian influx since the 1880s, and it was during this period of immigration to the Highlands that each Italian family brought a favorite edible with them — one necessary to every meal.

Now, Carbone’s Market remains, as a testament to North Denver’s heritage and the art of Italian cooking.

Any customer can experience a genuine Italian sandwich at Carbone’s the way it was meant to be. For $7.29, a 12-inch loaf of bread, some nicely cured meats, a bag of chips and a soda is thrown into a brown bag and is ready for consumption on the train or at school. Every cold-cut sandwich is paired with a choice of toppings such red vinegar and sweet or hot peppers, for that extra zest.

Looking closer, there is a wonderful marble to each sliver of meat in the “Italian Combo #2” and Carbone’s will slice your sandwich’s fixings on the spot. From the Sopressata salami, to the light mortadella that is similar to bologna, there are vast flavor combinations. Yet, all of the meats are deliberately paired together for the best taste. As one type of salami may be more pungent, another type is salty and smoky.

Now, when a curious passer-by enters Carbone’s, they may notice the market’s miniature size. Then, they may fix their eyes on the wall behind the counter that is adorned by ornamental crucifixes and a cloth map of Italy.

The area around the counter is void of any seating or comfortable standing room because various ingredients take up the walls. For sale are espresso machines and personal cookie-presses.

Obscure Italian brands jump off the shelves, causing your stomach’s intrigue to wash over the jars of Lupini beans and giardiniera peppers that look oddly appetizing.

Yet, these seemingly novel items represent Carbone’s love for the shopper, even if the lack of comfort does not.

But, because Denver is not a constantly busy city that undergoes the endless bustle of New York or Chicago, many eaters may not comprehend Carbone’s “take-out” mentality or short hours.

For those who prefer a place to sit and savor, don’t come to Carbone’s for your lunch. On the other hand, come for the raw materials; this market puts unadulterated ingredients into the customer’s hands, offering every eater the chance to create, and eat, their own classic Italian meal.

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